John F. Kennedy
would say, “Arvard” and we all knew that he was referring to the venerable
college, the rival of Yale. Over my
lifetime I have made a mental stack of the mentions of Harvard and built them
into a myth. Riding the T-line from
Boston I knew that my stop would be Harvard Square and I prepared myself for my
first view of this revered American institution.
Disconcertingly the Square is a triangle
with the first view mostly of what seems to be the backside of a brick dorm. There is an odd assortment of tacky buildings
edging the remaining sides of the Square.
A newsstand hunkers down in the middle of the triangular island
obscuring the entrance into Harvard. Once
one can see the entrance, it seems more fitting to a back entrance than a front
and so it is. The original entrance was farther up the road. Not to be deterred I made plans to cross the
campus at a later date.
To be fair the “Square” began as a village
center with a stream curving along side of it making it into more of a
triangle. The Square once had a
stone marked with "eight miles" as the distance that it would take a coach to
travel to Boston. When a bridge was finally constructed over the Charles River,
the new mileage "two and a half miles" was carved on the back of the stone. The stone remained until construction on the
subway system relegated it to a rubbish heap.
Fortunately someone noticed it and rescued it. The stone now stands nearby in God’s Acres,
the old burying ground by the Common.
A short distance into the campus one begins
to feel the elegance of the old buildings.
Harvard Yard, situated a hundred yards into
the grounds, is lovely. I crossed it late
one evening with snow falling. Not
knowing precisely where I should be going, I followed the paths with the most
footprints in the snow.
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Harvard Yard |
A lone yardman
swept the high steps to one of the libraries as the snow fell, trying to keep it safe for late-night
studies. The library is open only to students and professors (unlike some other
university libraries). Here is a view taken the next day from those well-swept library steps.
The campus of Harvard has now spread across
209 acres, some of which are located across the river on the Boston side. Harvard is one of seven research colleges in
the Boston area. The total of seventy or
so colleges in the greater Boston area is impressive. As I ride around on the transit system, there are college students on every route. Today I spoke to a student from Turkey.
Puritans founded Harvard in 1636. (It is unlikely they would have appreciated
the co-ed dorms now standard.) The
success of the school in promoting excellence is astonishing. Harvard has produced 47 Nobel Laureates, 32
heads of state and 48 Pulitzer Prize winners.
Betty, who I stayed with in Cambridge, a friend
of hers and I walked Mt Auburn Cemetery, the oldest landscaped cemetery in the
United States. Harvard presidents and many of its illustrious students are
buried here. The chilly sunlit snowy
grounds were perfect for a quiet walk.
The day was glorious. We enjoyed
each other’s company stopping here and there to point out a particularly
poignant headstone or tree.
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Mt. Auburn is noted for it's variety of trees. |
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Betty and Her Friend |
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Not sure who is buried here... certainly unique. |
Cambridge had been a most enjoyable place to visit. I loved the feeling of tradition. Betty was an exceptional host. She had many varied activities planned. She took me to a Thursday Morning Talk. These benefit a Mt. Auburn hospital.
The Talks have been a regular event for about 113 years! Beef broth is served in teacups from silver
urns prior to the talk. The talk on the day I attended was about the role that philanthropy takes in Boston's wellbeing. Improving the education levels of young African Americans is their current most pressing task.
Bread and Butter Puppet Show
The intellectual and
creative atmosphere of the Boston area is impressive. I’ll finish this entry with a nod to the
Bread and Butter Puppet Theatre. I don’t
know if anyone involved in the most recent show had a Harvard
connection, but the show was at least Harvard worthy. The depressing theme of oppression was
conveyed by the large-scale background drapes of black and white drawings, the huge grim
puppets (sometimes reaching fifteen feet in height) and the archaic
machines.
The audience walked about
during the entire performance following the puppets, musicians or the people as
they acted out the play with puppets appearing from behind the drapes, or
dropping from the ceiling. I am sorry
that I didn’t get any photos during the play, but maybe these photos will
convey its strange sadness. The large
room was dark during the play with various kinds of spotlights directing your
attention.
At the end of one week, Betty helped me move to Winthrop-by-the-Sea. (I think we both shall miss our late night talks.) For the next two weeks I am living about a block from the water in a community north of Boston.